My lovely 33 years old Triton is on the ground since 1 year now for different reason, the last is but the first was that there was a very small link at the shaft (motor side) . But at this time last year, I understood that I have to put the boat out. When I was in Tunisia, as the problem was there but less, I was on a place in the harbor where there was around 1 feet under the keel, just in case off.
 
When i came in August 2000 to see my boat in south of Spain, I have seen that the electric pump in the bottom was completly corroded by the salted water inside the hull (about 1 inches that the pump can never dry). The next pump will be completly painted (epoxy inside/outside including electric motor) before reaching its place.
 
I never touch the old bronze "gate" on the seacocks of the cockpit because the only time I do it, the handle brokes. Same thing for all the bronze things on the boat, including the 1 inch prop shaft, who was corroded to under 1/2 inch just in front the propeller, inside the tube, so I have never see that before disassembling the things. By chance I don't loosed the propeller. This part is in bronze, I'll change to inox
 
Next good surprise, I have discovered that the hull is 100% osmosed (with an electronic osmosis tester). Above the water line, nothing, the tester was green all around. The boat was on the ground since 9 months, and the hull still wet (the polyester, not inside). As I just wanted to sail, I was really happy. So I have started the osmosis treatment in August, I have removed all the parts (old or new) including seacocks,  loch and sounder heads, shaft and all the parts around it (I don't know the name, sorry), rudder etc etc. Then I have "grind" the gelcoat and the 1st coat of glass, because it was like an old sponge full of acid. I removed about 2 millimeters (more than 1/16 inch) This job was terrible, even with
good clothes protection, cap, glasses, big pro mask etc. The weather in the south of Spain was very hot. I spend around 30 hours to do both side from the bottom to the waterline, with a small hand machine and about 20 disks. Next summer, I'll do epoxy, new seacocks, new propeller shaft, etc. I think I'll do a coat of epoxy inside the hull too. This will work 10 or 15 years.
 
In France, the solid fiberglass tubes are not accepted: every hole (but rudder and shaft) in the hull must have a closing seacock with 2 inox collars at every side of the tube. There is also a legal formula to calculate the diameter of the tube, in order to empty the cockpit in a short (and legal) time, around 2 minutes. But if you choose this solution, do it strong, especially at the liaison on the hull.
 
Last thing, before coating new polyester or epoxy resin on old polyester (this case we both have), put a thin coat of polyurethane varnish on the polyester and start the new polyester/epoxy before the polyurethane varnish is completly dry, let's say after 40 minutes / 1 hour depending of the temperature. At this time, the varnish must not stick on the finger but must be slighty wet. This gives a good chemical "hook". Also the polyurethane polymerise (?) when it meets humidity, so it catch the water in the old polyester if any. This recipe from a boat repair school in France.
 
If you do fiberglass with epoxy, takes a good fiberglass, the "normal " quality (for polyester) is not strong enough for epoxy.

Last thing, never forget to protect yourself - it means professional mask, gloves, clothes, hat  - because epoxy, polyester, paints are both cancerigene. It's not a joke.
 
Ok, see you. Phil the frenchy & Orion.